Missoula had its star turn in 1992, when the cinematic Montana family drama A River Runs Through It, which takes place there, was released—making the riverside town, long home to the University of Montana, famous forever. Now that Yellowstone films many of its popular scenes in nearby Darby, there is a renewed interest in Missoula and its landscape. Here, after our recent visit, can’t-miss things to do, eat, and see this season and beyond.
The University of Montana’s bustling campus retains its 1899 clock tower, built in Richardsonian Romanesque style right on the oval and set before the switchback trails up Mount Sentinel. Fly-fishing and horseback riding are staple Montana extracurriculars. Rafting down the Clark Fork River with Missoula’s 1910 Milwaukee Depot in the background. Missoula is particularly entrancing in autumn, when golden leaves impart an extra sweetness to the fall air.
Do.
Outdoor recreation might just be the area’s specialty: water sports in the summer, snow sports in the winter, and fly-fishing all year round. Hiking up to “the M” on a switch-backing, three-quarter-mile trail up Mount Sentinel has been an iconic, must-do exploit in Missoula since the letter was originally constructed here on the hills above the University of Montana’s campus by the Forestry Club in 1908. The hike is steep and strenuous, but worth it as you’ll be able to see an entire panorama of Missoula from the top: a postcard sprung to life.
Eat.
Fuel any day’s exploits at Le Petit Bakehouse, where the cannelés de bordeaux and croissants are such blissful, buttery bites that they taste like they were overnighted from a Parisian boulangerie. A couple blocks away, brick-walled Bernice’s Bakery sits near the banks of the Clark Fork River and has churned out unmissable baked goods since 1978; the dark chocolate and salted caramel buttercream “turtle” cake will send any chocoholic into outer orbit. Farther south, the 27,000-square-foot, aptly named Good Food Store is the place to find curated treats, including comté cheese from France.
Montana’s carb lovers beeline to local chain MacKenzie River Pizza for their Chicken Tikka Za, with comfort-food toppings including tikka masala sauce, chicken, cilantro, and green chile sour cream; the “Dante”—hot honey drizzled chicken and spinach pizza—at Front Street Pizzeria is similarly addictive. For a splurge-worthy night out, the new Florabella is the spot; the airy Italian restaurant serves up exquisite dishes, including house-made bread with black garlic and lavender honey compound butters. Don’t leave town without indulging in the locally made—and beloved—ice cream at Big Dipper Ice Cream; the huckleberry flavor would put a pitter-patter in any grizzly bear’s heart.
See.
Designed by local A&E Design firm in partnership with Minneapolis-based MSR Design, the award-winning $38 million Missoula Public Library is more of a modernist showpiece than a stuffy book repository. (Although, yes, they have plenty of books.) Science lovers and those traveling with kids should head up to the second floor for the University of Montana’s spectrUM Discovery Area, where little ones can “catch” toy versions of local fish, make rain fall from a faux cloud over a miniature version of the Clark Fork River, and so much more.
Photography provided by Destination Missoula Media, Taylar Robbins, Journal of Lost Time.
travel tips.
When to Go: Many visitors to Missoula prefer to stay in the summer and autumn months, when weather tends to be warm and sunny—ideal for outdoor adventures.
How to Get There: The new Missoula Montana Airport (MSO) is sleek but welcoming, with floor-to-ceiling glass walls that overlook the surrounding mountains and a flickering gas fireplace by the entrance to its five gates.
Where to Stay: For an “only in Montana” feeling, book a stay at the C’Mon Inn Hotel & Suites; the hotel has the feel of a woodsy National Park lodge, but with an airy central atrium filled with multiple hot tubs and a massive pool. If you’d rather stay at a fresh new-build, AC Hotel Missoula Downtown is a favorite; it even boasts the town’s only rooftop bar (seasonal), 7R, where you can take in dazzling sunset views with your tipple of choice.
